Climbing Mount Etna. The Peace of a Volcano

As a writer I enjoy the peace of the wilds. It helps me think, especially when I am running or even hiking. Be it the countryside or top of a mountain, I have started and finished stories in my head while surrounded by nature. So when my dear wife suggested we go climbing Mount Etna on a recent visit to Sicily, I was all for it.

Mount Etna's eruptions have been documented by us mere humans for 2,700 years and is one of the worlds most active volcanoes, and the highest (11,014ft), most active in Europe. But this doesn't make it one of the most dangerous. Because it is so active, and constantly releasing steam, the eruptions have less force. Needless to say, it is also very well monitored.

We drove up to the base a few days before we intended to climb and spoke to a local guide, Nino Scandura. We struck a deal and as there were no other people choosing to go on the day we wanted, it would be just the three of us. A little more expensive but, truly, it was worth it. To say he was extremely helpful and professional would be an understatement. He was fantastic.

We started climbing Mount Etna by cable car, yeah... I know what you're thinking. Why didn't we walk? To walk the 10,000ft from the bottom would take too long, trust me 😂. Honestly? I was a little disappointed at first, especially when he said after the cable car we get a bus. But when you alight from the bus at 10,000 ft and realise that walking a few yards takes a lot of effort, it makes sense. We were told it was not suitable for anyone with Asthma or a heart condition, and once we got off the bus and began to climb I could certainly understand why. The air was so thin any strenuous activity leaves you breathless. Although... we chose not to take the bus back and trekked all the way down to the cable car, it was hard going. The hike to the summit and back was a mere 10k but took us five and a half hours. I run 10k in 42 minutes! When you are hiking up to the summit it is so quiet, so peaceful and you have time to consider life.

It was my wife's birthday a few days before and I'm not sure how Nino knew this but after a gruelling climb to the summit he produced a bottle of red wine. I thought it was a joke and cynically asked. "Do you have a corkscrew?" He replied. "Of course, Happy birthday, Gillian." And produced three glasses, he then poured us all, a glass of very welcome wine.

We hiked our way around the summit while Nino explained the history of Etna and pointed out the four active craters. There was quite a lot of gas emissions and the smell of sulphur hung heavily in the air. This didn't help our breathing, but as we are both physically fit we coped fine.

Eventually it was time to hike our way back down. Now that was scary. I've always found climbing up something relatively easy, not so much coming down though. We had to change route at one stage due to the wind blowing the sulphur across our chosen path. There's only so much of that stuff you can breathe in. Underfoot was tricky too, hence the walking poles, gloves and helmets. Hiking across the lava fields was akin to walking on shards of glass. Nino explained that to fall would rip your skin to shreds... comforting!

So there you are. If you ever get the chance to visit Sicily I recommend Etna as an adventure. I can also strongly recommend Nino as a guide. As well as being an expert on Etna, he supplied the walking sticks, boots, helmets and gloves as part of the deal. He asked for my WhatsApp details and when I arrived back at our base he had sent me over thirty photographs and videos of our hike.

Happy trails, folks x